Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Ode to Braising

After the exquisite indulgence of the holiday season (this year seemed to be filled with even more meat, wine, champagne, and sweets than usual), I decided to go on a brief hiatus from some of the more gluttonous offenders of my December diet. I never really "diet," per say, but a couple of weeks with no meat, a little less cheese, and limited processed sugars can do a body good. So, except for a particularly tasty mac and cheese with bacon that a friend made for me, I'd been pretty good for the last couple of weeks. But this weekend, gosh darnit, I was hungry and craving some protein. Enter: the braise.

Oh sweet braising, how simple and delicious you are. Essentially, you just pick something to cook, brown it, add some liquid and herbs for flare, and let that baby cook over low heat for a few hours. By the time you're done, the flavors should be well-balanced and well-incorporated, and the meat tender as all get. Braising is the basis for many a crock pot recipe (including my personal favorite of corned beef and cabbage), pot roasts, and commonly-known French dishes like coq au vin and beef bourguignon. Apparently it's also the technique for Moroccan tajines and a variety of Asian dishes. Everyone loves a good slow-cooked meat, it seems.

Now, a good braise will take at least 2 to 3 hrs, depending on what you're cooking and how much prep you're putting into it. Some recipes call for individually browning every little thing that goes into the pot. Some say you should season the meat the night before. I'm sure I've done that before, and I've had dishes from friends (such as Roomie's coq au vin) that were so delightful they have made me reconsider actually learning the science behind these methods. But, more often than not, I settle on a braise as an easy, leisurely Sunday meal that I just don't want to think that hard about. So, you should look up recipes and try lots of methods and find your own braising voice, so to speak.

When I braise, I use my big cast iron dutch oven. I always use about half an onion, loosely chopped; 4-5 large garlic cloves, chopped; and equal parts wine and stock (usually about two cups each - enough to cover all the meat). Carrots and celery are good, too, especially with beef, I just don't usually have them on hand. For beef and mushrooms, I use a red wine, a couple teaspoons thyme, and about two tablespoons tomato paste. For chicken: white wine, thyme, tarragon and/or rosemary, and about half lemon, cut into fourths. The method's the same - in a heavy pot or dutch oven get some oil piping hot and sear up the beef/mushrooms/chicken for 2-3 minutes on each side (until browned), remove the meat, lower the heat to medium and brown the onions and garlic for a few minutes.

Browned Short Ribs

Then return the meat to the pot, add the stock, wine, herbs, etc, and cook over low heat until the meat is super tender. Chicken - about an hour and half. Beef - 2 to 3 hrs. Turn meat over once or twice in the meantime, and taste to see if more salt/acid/flavors are needed. Add a little butter to the braising liquid to give it a little more decadence. If you want to thicken the sauce at the end, add all-purpose flour or corn starch - about a tablespoon that's been dissolved in water - and boil for a few minutes. Add more if necessary, but be careful of adding more than a couple of tablespoons - it can affect the flavor.

Short Ribs after the braise - and yes that is about a quarter inch of fat on the top

What to do with your braised goodies? Serve 'em up with some roasted potatoes and veggies. Shred 'em and add them to a baked pasta (how I've been using my chicken, with the braising liquid instead of a pasta sauce) or serve it over a risotto (especially good with short ribs and a blue cheese-mushroom risotto). Use it as the base for a bunch of paninis (melted cheese, tender meat, crusty bread, and braising liquid as a dipping sauce? Yes, please). Add a little more stock and some crushed tomatoes for a hearty stew. Add some canned tomatoes and toss with some fettuccine (usually what I do for a mushroom braise).

Homemade fettuccine with a braised mushroom sauce and parsley

Braised short ribs sandwich with caramelized onions, arugula, and Monterey Jack

2 comments:

Caralyn said...

Also awesome to braise: kale. I'm telling you, braised kale is to die for. Add a dash of balsamic vinegar at the end for extra amazingness.

Emily said...

Thanks for the advice, Caralyn. Just made a batch with some lentils, marinated tofu sticks, and fried mushrooms. Yum!

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