Beet Risotto

A while back, two of my favorite foodie friends and I were discussing the best way to make a beet risotto.  Better to make a simple risotto base and top it with beets at the end?  Or better to make a beet stock and infuse the whole dish with beet-red goodness?  This prompted a beet-themed dinner party, replete with beet risotto, beet salad, beet chutney, and a chocolate beet cake.

I decided to go for the beet-stock risotto, because I wanted to see just how colorful it could get.  And my, did it turn fuchsia!  It was like Lisa Frank had decorated my plate (in a good way). And while the color infused the entire dish, the beet flavor wasn't too overwhelming.  The additions of dill, goat cheese, and some fried onions added a lot of flavor that balanced out the beetiness. I tried topping it with some makeshift beet "croutons," hoping to add a little more beet flavor and a little crunch, but they didn't get as crispy as I hoped.  Oh well. 

When I first tried making this risotto, I actually prepared the stock the night before by boiling the beets in some veggie stock until they were cooked.  This time, I just threw large beet slices in with the risotto for about the first 20 minutes it was cooking, and then removed them while the rice finished.  Both way has the same effect, and the second saved a bit of time.  I also tried throwing in some arugula this time, but I prefer the dill - it was a little more balanced than the spiciness of the arugula.

Beet Risotto with Goat Cheese

1/2 cup diced onions

3-4 large cloves garlic, minced

1 cup arborio rice

1/2 cup white wine

3-4 beets, peeled and quartered

3-4 cups stock

1/3 cup goat cheese crumbles, plus more for garnish

1 1/2 tbs. chopped dill, plus more for garnish

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

1) Saute onions and garlic in olive oil and a pinch of salt until soft and aromatic

2) Add rice, mix until rice is covered with oil, and toast for about a minute.  Add the wine and cook over medium heat until wine is fully absorbed.

3) Add in the beets and enough stock to cover the rice and beets (2 to 2 1/2 cups).  Over medium low-heat, cook the rice and beets, stirring regularly. See the basic risotto recipe I use for more information on how to cook risotto. 

4) After about twenty minutes, before the rice is done, take out the beet quarters.  Chop a few up to use for garnish, and reserve the rest for a salad or any of your other beet needs. 

5) Right as the risotto is finishing (the rice is al dente and the starch has made it all nice and creamy) add the goat cheese and dill.  Stir well, and keep reduce heat to low.

6)  In a separate sauce pan, heat up a few tablespoons of vegetable oil or other oil with a high smoking temp (not olive oil or butter) over high heat.  When the oil is very hot, add the sliced shallots and cook until browned, stirring regularly to avoid burning them.  Remove to a small plate with a paper towel and sprinkle with salt while still hot. 

7) In a large bowl or individual dishes, serve up the risotto.  Garnish with fried shallots and left over goat cheese and dill.  A nice Riesling or sweeter sparkling wine would add a final tasty touch. 

Who knew risotto could be so pretty?

Salmon with Fresh Tomato Sauce in a Hurry

Recently, in an attempt to boost my immune system and natural defenses as cold-and-flu-etc. season approaches, I've been trying to pay closer attention to the variety of foods in my diet.  I noticed I hadn't been eating a lot of healthy fats (aside from extra virgin olive oil on salads and a bit of almond butter at breakfast), so I decided it was time to prepare a simple salmon dish for a hefty dose of omega-3s.  I've also been reading a lot by one of my favorite health gurus, Dr. Weil, and trying to implement more of his anti-inflammatory food principles--an approach to healthful eating that's easy to follow and full of delicious good-for-you foods like salmon, for instance, plenty of fruits and veggies, soy, and chocolate and wine.

So, I'm going to make some salmon, but with what?

From reading my favorite of Weil's books, (which is a thorough and accessible healthy food reference), I discovered something interesting about lycopene, an important carotenoid (an antioxidant pigment) that is frequently associated with tomatoes.  Lycopene can only be absorbed by the body from tomatoes that are cooked, not raw, and some fat must also be present in the digestive tract to facilitate that absorption.  So to put it simply, a simple cooked fresh tomato sauce made with olive oil is a delicious way to obtain some important, protective phytochemicals.  Amazingly, beautiful fresh tomatoes were still plentiful at our local farmer's market when I made this about a week ago.  And so it came together quite nicely: simple salmon with a quick cooked fresh tomato sauce.  Definitely under 30 minutes.

In anti-inflammatory health,
K

2 cups cherry, grape, or plum tomatoes (whatever looks good at the market
1 medium yellow onion, sliced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
a few tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
coarse salt and fresh ground pepper
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice (optional)
a few teaspoons fresh herbs (optional, whatever you might have)
2-3 salmon fillets, patted dry with paper towels

If you first prepare the tomato sauce, then set it aside in your plates while you cook the salmon, you can use just one pan and make clean up time as efficient as the dish itself.
 
If using plum tomatoes, cut them up into small pieces; for grape or cherry tomatoes, halve everything.  Sauté onions in a few tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat about 5 minutes until almost translucent.  Stir in garlic and cook another 2 minutes.  Add in tomatoes, and sort of smush down some of the pieces to help release the juices.  Cook for another 4-5 minutes until the mixture is pleasantly softened.  Sprinkle with plenty of salt and pepper to taste.  Add herbs and lemon juice, if desired, and stir it in well.  Set tomato sauce aside on your serving platter, if you're using one, or just divide it onto the plates you intend to use for dinner.

Remove the salmon fillets from the fridge and pat well with paper towels.  Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.  Clean out the skillet and heat a few tablespoons olive oil over medium heat.  When oil is hot, add salmon and cook about 4 minutes per side, depending on thickness of fillets, until the fish is just barely cooked through.  Remove fillets from heat and plate onto tomato sauce.  Let sit 2-3 minutes and serve.  Healthy, yes, and delicious.

Sweet Potato Curry in a Hurry

If you're a fan of Indian food, you're well aware that regular take-out orders of channa masala and saag can really add up.  I think Indian cooking is often intimidating to people because of long ingredient lists and complicated methods, but I'm convinced that decent korma and chicken masala can be made at home--but that's for a later post.  What follows is a very basic but satisfying vegetable curry.    

So, I wanted to develop an easy curry recipe that could be thrown together on a weeknight in 30 minutes or less.  I really like curries that have a sweet vegetable component to counter some heat, such as sweet potato or Asian pumpkin, and I used that as my starting point.  I think this is a great base for any leftover veggies or proteins you have sitting in the fridge (I had sweet potato and red pepper, so those are featured here--be flexible and use what you have). 

K, now craving crispy papadum

Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil or canola oil over medium-high heat in a medium dutch oven, and when oil is hot add:

1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 t. red pepper flakes or diced hot chilies if you have them (or more if you want it spicier)
1/2 t. black mustard seeds
1/2 t. coarse salt

Stir for a couple of minutes until the onion begins to soften a bit, and add:

1 red bell pepper, cut into in a very thin julienne
2 T. of your favorite bottled curry powder
2 t. sugar

Stir for 2-3 minutes.  Then stir in:

1 can (14.5 oz.) diced tomatoes
1 1/2 c. plain yogurt
1 c. half-and-half, milk, or coffee cream

Stir well to combine, bring to a low simmer, and add:

2 c. diced sweet potatoes, baked or steamed
1-2 c. additional cooked veggies (such as leftovers; optional)
2 c. diced tofu or chicken (optional)
1/2 c. chopped cilantro (optional)

Allow everything to simmer for at least 5 minutes.  Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve over steamed white or brown rice.

Fall Cooking...

Fall harvest at the Bloomfield Farmers Market

Last week, I spent pretty much every night in the kitchen.  I braised a chicken and turned it into a casserole (or a hot dish, as we from Minnesota like to say), made a beet stock (and a subsequent bright purple beet risotto), a squash soup, homemade greek yogurt, and a beet relish. It was a good cooking week, but now my creative juices are a bit drained, and I've been living on quesadillas and the frozen homemade ravioli I made a few weeks ago.  Plus some pub grub here and there.  Every once and a while, it's nice to have the weeks off from major cooking.  Grilled cheeses, chicken wings or burgers, take out, and the prepared foods section at Whole Foods are satisfying treats on a lazy day.  Maybe I'll whip something up after the farmer's market on Thursday, but I'm okay with a little fatty indulgence of cheese and fried foods until then.


Fall, though is my favorite time of year to cook.  The produce is great (winter squash, celery root, brussel sprouts, oh my!) and it's the time to start fattening up for winter.  A lot of hearty soups and creamy pastas and baked dishes galore.  And fall brings the colors changing and perfect evenings for brisk walks and scarves and dark beers with friends.  Sigh, it'll only last a short while until winter's inevitable return, but we can enjoy it until then, right?

 

So I'm putting together a list of things I'm looking forward to cooking to keep me warm throughout the season:

-Savory bread pudding
-Vegetarian chili
-Perfecting my braised chicken casserole
-Salted honey lavender shortbread 
-Irish brown bread
-Truffled egg toast
-Crab tater tots 
-Getting at least one gnocchi recipe down, such as this one
-Celery root ravioli or soup
-Potato soup
-Coming up with an awesome risotto cake recipe
-Pasta with sweet potatoes and a walnut-kale pesto
-Thanksgiving dinner, in all it's gluttonous glory


So much to look forward to!

Squash are perty

Chipotle Spiced Kabocha Squash Soup

Squash season is here!  Roomie and I were talking a few nights ago about how winter squash can be intimidating sometimes .  And, kind of a pain in the butt.  Who hasn't tried to peel a butternut squash and chop it into pieces?  Or to thwack an acorn squash in half?  It ain't always easy!  Even with a good knife and some pent up aggression, getting those suckers cracked open is no piece of cake (or pie...pumpkin pie...).  But, squash soup, squash risotto, stuffed squash, roasted squash...So delicious.

I don't really know much about kabocha squash, other than I think it's the kind they use in pumpkin curries.  It's Japanese in origin, and according to the Whole Foods sign hanging on the bin, kabocha is sweeter and less stringy than an acorn squash (which the kabocha resembles). So, what the heck, why not try something new, eh? There were two varieties at the market - red and green - so I picked up one of each for kicks. I was teetering between Asian and Mexican flavors for the soup, and I thought this would be a good opportunity to use some of the dried peppers I picked up in Oaxaca earlier this year. Mexican it was!  I was also hoping to use the kabocha seeds themselves as a garnish, but roasting them ended up kind of failing - they're too big and chewy.  Pepitas, though, would be a nice touch for a little extra texture to the soup.

Out of sheer laziness, I decided to roast the squash.  I could have peeled 'em and chopped 'em up and let it all cook in the stock, thus saving some the time you'd have to wait for the squash to roast.  But I decided I'd rather wait a half-hour to roast the squash (during which I could cook a second dish or watch some tv) instead of getting frustrated with having to break down those little pumpkin suckers.  And probably chopping a finger off.  Once the squash was soft from the oven, all I had to do was scoop out the meat.  Easy stuff. The squash straight out of the oven, by the way, was deliciously sweet and smooth.  Kabocha was definitely the right choice.

Cooking this soup reminded me of how much I love my immersion blender.  I'm a clumsy cook (really, I'm just a clumsy person) - I spill and I slip and I drop pans and all that jazz.  Roomie, who was eating in the other room while I made this recipe, asked me at least three times if I needed any help (after dropping a few things and burning my hand.  Sweet.)  Anyway, when I used to have to puree soups in a standing blender, I would inevitably end up spilling the stock and putting in too much and making a crazy mess.  Even now, if I do use my standing blender, I just spoon out the solid stuff (potatoes or squash usually), puree them alone, and add them back to the stock.  But, with an immersion blender, I don't need to deal with any of that.  Plug in the blender, whirl it around the pot where my food is already cooking, and viola, puree! If you like pureed soups (or tomato sauces, or smoothies) without the hassle of a standing blender, it's definitely worth the investment.  Or do like I did, and ask for one for Christmas.

Thoughts after leftovers for lunch: This soup needs a bit of acidity, but I'm not quite sure how to achieve it.  A squeeze of lemon juice might suffice, but it also might overwhelm the squash and chipotle flavors.  Maybe some zest?  A chimichurri sauce?  Or at least a knock off of chimichurri, probably closer to a cilantro pistou. Good plan...

Chipotle-Spiced Squash Soup

2 Kabocha squash (I used one red and one green, about 5 pounds in total)
1/2 large onion, chopped
3-4 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 tbs. cumin
2 tsp. chile powder
4 cups stock (one box's worth)
3-4 dried chipotles (I'm sure canned chipotles will do, as well)


1 bunch cilantro
2 tbs. olive oil
2 tbs. lemon juice
3-4 large cloves garlic


Ricotta/plain yogurt/crema
Pepitas

1) Preheat oven to 375-degrees.  Quarter the squash and scoop out the seeds.  Place on a greased cookie sheet and roast until squash is soft enough to scoop out, about 30 minutes.

2) Remove squash from oven. Using a towel to protect your hands and a large spoon, scoop out the meat of the squash into a large prep bowl. It doesn't have to look pretty - it'll keep cooking and get pureed later.

3) In a large stock pan, saute the onion, garlic and a hefty pinch of salt in olive oil over medium heat until soft and slightly translucent (about five minutes).  Add the cumin and chili powder and stir to coat the onion and garlic.  Cook a couple of minutes, until you can smell the cumin and chili throughout your kitchen.

4) Add squash, stock, and chipotle peppers and stir until well mixed.  Reduce heat to low and let simmer for 20-30 minutes.  Taste about 10 minutes in to see if more salt or spice is needed. (Cumin and chili will add some earthy smokiness. Smell 'em to see which one you like more - I like cumin.  Throw in another chipotle pepper or some red pepper flakes if you want more heat.)

5) While the soup is simmering, in a food processor blend together the cilantro, olive oil, lemon juice, remaining garlic, and a pinch of salt.  Blend until its about the consistency of a pesto. Add more olive oil as necessary.

6) Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth.  

7) Ladle soup into a bowl and add a dollop of ricotta/yogurt/sour cream/etc (whatever you have on hand) and a spoonful of the cilantro pesto and garnish with some pepitas.  Serve hot!

Serves 6-8.

Eggplant Caponata (or "Gobbladina")

I know that October indicates that we're pretty firmly into autumn, but I associate this classic Italian eggplant relish, Caponata, with summertime parties at my Italian grandparents' house.  For some reason, my grandmother calls this dish "Gobbladina," as in, it's-so-incredibly-delicious-everyone-wants-to-gobble-it-up.  To this day, I'm not totally sure why she gave it that nickname.  When I was a kid this was one of my favorite foods made by Grandma; of course it was always homemade to her exact specifications, like everything else that came out of her kitchen--or house, for that matter (she was also a highly accomplished dressmaker).  Since I got to enjoy it only a few times a year, Gobbladina always felt like a really luxurious, rare treat--my parents never made it and believed that the pre-made "caponata" sold in jars in supermarkets just couldn't match up to the sweet, slightly spicy, wonderfully gooey delicacy that Grandma could create from a few humble vegetables: eggplant, onion, and tomato. The remarkable thing is that Gobbladina is incredibly easy to make, and it's sort of hard to screw up.  Even if you only roughly follow the instructions below, you'll end up with something delicious.

Traditionally, Caponata is served as part of an Italian antipasto platter before the "real meal" begins, but if you're like me, the antipasto has some of the best stuff: briny olives, chunks of salty sharp Provolone, strips of sweet roasted peppers, cured Italian meats, and of course, Caponata.  This is certainly a wonderful way to enjoy it, but I'm so in love with this food that I have devised many more ways to appreciate it regularly--see below the recipe for an inspirational list.

Now, on to the ingredients:  depending on which region in Italy one hails from, Caponata is prepared in several variations: some include chopped olives or capers, some are more oily with fewer spices, some are infused with a heavy dose of citrus zest.  The version I wrote up here is of course, in my opinion, the best way to do it--the Sicilian way.  I thank my lovely Grandmother, Agatha, for instilling in me such a divine devotion to eggplant: via Gobbladina in the summer, and her rendition of Eggplant Parmesan the rest of the year--but that's for another post entirely.

Mangia!
K, feeling fiercely loyal to her wonderfully talented 90 year-old grandmother

Eggplant Caponata (or "Gobbladina")

1/3 cup olive oil
1 very large yellow/Spanish onion, cut into a 1-inch dice
1/4-1/2 t. red pepper flakes (increase according to your heat level preference)
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
2 medium eggplants (about 2 1/2 pounds total), cut into 1-inch cubes
1 T. sugar
1 t. ground cinnamon
1/2 t. unsweetened cocoa powder
2 t. fresh thyme
3/4 cup tomato sauce (from a small can of plain tomato sauce or homemade if you have it)
1/4 cup orange juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 T. capers, rinsed and drained (optional)
3-4 T. toasted pine nuts, for garnish (optional)

1. Once your ingredients are prepped, heat the olive oil in your largest skillet or enameled cast iron dutch oven.  When the oil is hot add the onion and red pepper flakes and sauté about 5 minutes until the onions are softened and almost translucent.  Add the garlic and stir another 1-2 minutes.
2.  Add the eggplant, stirring it around so it's coated with a bit of the oil and onion.  Then add in the sugar, cinnamon, cocoa powder and mix well.  Stir regularly for about five minutes until the eggplant is well softened.
3.  Add in the thyme, orange juice and tomato sauce and stir well.  When the mixture comes to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 10-15 more minutes.  Season with salt and pepper.  Allow mixture to cool, then stir in extra virgin olive oil and capers if you're using them.  Top with pine nuts, if desired, or store in a Tupperware in the fridge for up to a couple of weeks (if it lasts that long).  The flavors develop really well overnight, so try to make it a day in advance.  It tastes best when served at room temperature.

Ideas for Enjoying Caponata at breakfast, lunch, dinner, and in-between...
plated next to grilled ciabatta bread and poached eggs for an elegant brunch
displayed on an antipasto platter with olives, cheese, roasted peppers, etc.
stuffed in a pita pocket with some garbonzo beans and feta cheese crumbles
laid on top of a crostini spread with goat cheese
stirred into a mild cannelini bean spread
stirred into cooked pasta, rice, or other grains (barley, quinoa, etc.)
spooned on top of grilled fish, chicken, tofu, or halloumi cheese
layered in a sandwich with turkey breast and mild cheese
mixed with simply steamed greens like baby spinach
tossed with some roasted, diced potatoes for an Italian "potato salad" 
rolled into a wrap with oil packed Italian tuna and fresh parsley

Instant Love: Apple Crisp

Despite spending most Thanksgivings growing up helping my grandma make the requisite apple and pumpkin pies, I have never been able to master a pie crust.  When they're on sale I buy the pre-made dough that's already conveniently rolled out. But whenever I try to make pie crust at home, it turns into a mess and an utter failure.  Which is a shame, because tis the season for apples and for pies, and I love pies.  To satisfy my cravings for sweet, warm desserts, I've discovered the crisp.  It's the same pie filling that grandma taught me well, but without the hassle of a crust. Grandma never used actual measurements, though, so sorry for the lack of precise cups and tablespoons and whatnot. 


Get a bunch of apples and peel them if you'd like (I usually don't to save some time).  Then slice them thinly (say a quarter inch thick) and toss them together with sugar and a little cinnamon, maybe some nutmeg.  Use enough sugar to cover the apply slices well.  Put the apples in a pie pan or baking dish.  I also add some frozen berries sometimes if my apples don't fill up the space to my liking (as I did in the picture above).  


For the crust, you'll need: 1/2 cup flour, 1/2 cup rolled oats, 6-8 tbs. soft butter, 1/3 cup sugar, a pinch of salt, and some cinnamon and nutmeg. Mix it all together and drop it on top of the sliced apples. 


Bake in 375-degree oven until the apples get bubbly and the crust gets nice and brown (around a half hour).  Serve with ice cream or whipped cream. 

Ode to Food and Family

I'm usually in charge of finding a place to eat out when my family gets together. With a little help from Yelp (ha, that rhymes) and some good old googling, I can usually hunt down a pretty good restaurant. And most of the time we're meeting up back in Minnesota, so I try to keep an eye on the restaurant scene there. But now, with two of my brothers living in Chicago (the first time any of us have lived in the same city in over 10 years), I am missing out on some pretty good family meals. Don't worry, I believe in food karma (good food will come back to me), and there are some pretty exciting new dining options in my neighborhood that my parents will be forced to take me to.

What's even worse than missing out on good meals with the family is that I still end up having to plan them. My brothers recently moved to Chicago (though one lived there for almost ten years before joining the Peace Corps) and aren't always the most decisive. And, they like to mess around with my dad. So began a lengthy email chain, with suggestions from Wendy's to Moto, an apparent mecca of molecular gastronomy (or as they call it, 'postmodern cuisine.' Hell if I know what that means.) My dad actually almost fell for booking reservations at Moto, before I told him the meal would cost at least $250 a head. In the end, they wound up at a recommendation of mine, a wine bar with affordable small eats and a fun looking wine list.

After all my hard work scouring the internet for the perfect locale, I had to jealously appreciate their meal from afar. My oldest brother kept sending me pictures of the various dishes (apparently there were 15 in all) and my dad kept emailing me about suggestions for wine. The emails kept coming until well after my bedtime, with the final one simply titled "Order for us, please" with a copy of the after dinner drinks list attached.

I was jealous as hell of my brothers last night, who were sending me pictures in part to taunt me (with my leftovers and $12 Chianti). But more so I think they wanted to share their meal with me, since I couldn't be there. And I'm glad they did - now I have ideas for some new things to try at home, and I liked being able to share a bit in their fabulous night out. That is what I love about food and wine and eating out and picking the restaurant, even if I can't be there. It's a time to celebrate the company your with. To share in the creativity and artfulness of presentation and flavors. To ogle. To gossip. To get a little drunk and make fun of each other. Food brings joy into peoples' lives and helps people connect, even across state lines and time zones.

Plus, now I have a good excuse for why my father will have to bring me to both Salt and Spoon next time he visits. He owes me one.

Truffled egg toast, one of the things I'm gonna have to try to make