Why I'm not a baker: Office Cookie Exchange 2010

This post could also be called "Why Equipment Matters."  For my office's beer and cookie exchange, I have to make 7 dozen cookies.  Plus more for friends plus more to nibble on in the kitchen.  Since I am not a baker, and do not enjoy the recipes required to be a good baker, I thought I'd try a shortbread, which I am told is the easiest cookie to perfect.  Just butter, flour, sugar, perhaps a touch of vanilla.  Thought I'd spruce it up with a little lavender and orange zest, for a little foodie flair.  Over the last couple of weeks, I've tried a few different batches, and upon the advice of a friend (who's kind of a shortbread whiz) I decided this recipe was going to guide me throughout my afternoon of baking.

Since I'm cooking dozens of cookies, a pie dish (as suggested by Bon Apetit) just wouldn't do.  I whipped out all of our baking gear, processed the crap out of almost four pounds of butter and even more flour, and prepped dough and pans for about 8 dozen cookies. After a few hours of processing and refrigerating and baking, I ended up with two wildly different results, as seen below (photographed with the wine I was drinking to ease my baking frustrations). One and a half batches came out in crumbles, the other two slid perfect out of the baking sheets.  The difference: the successful batches were made in our heavy-duty non-stick metal pans.  The failures (or shortbread chips) were baked in a thin metal hardly non-stick (though greased) pan.  

On a stove top, it's relatively easy for me to adjust from one pot or pan to the next, to adapt to the kitchen materials you've been provided.  Sure, it can change the results and the methods you have to use, but the likelihood is you can still make a sauce or some pasta.  Baking, grrr, baking, why do you need such attention to detail?!?!

Good new is, shortbread chips still taste like butter and sugar, and that ain't all bad...

Instant Love: Roasted Chicken

I don't cook meat very often, but I sure do love a roasted bird. I didn't start roasting things until about a year ago, and I'm glad I did.  A roasted chicken is so good, and so easy.  I'm sure there are ways to spruce this up, but a basic roasted chicken does it for me.  I take a couple of tablespoons of butter and mix it together with some salt and some spices (in this one, about 1 tsp. salt, 1 tsp. lavender, and 2 tsp. thyme).  Using my finger, I separate the skin from the meat and rub about half of the butter-herb mix directly onto the meat.  The rest of the butter I put on top of the skin - it usually doesn't stick very well, so I just plop some butter here and there, on the legs and breasts, and it melts nicely to make it brown.  Inside of the cavity of the chicken, I put some lemon and onion slices and a few cloves of garlic.  Cook at 350 for about 1 1/2 hours for a 3 pound chicken.  About an hour into the cooking time, I like to pour a cup of white wine over the bird to give it a little moisture and extra flavor.  About 15 minutes prep, then hang out, enjoy a simple home-cooked dinner, and save the rest for luncheon leftovers!

Note: you can usually get away with more salt than you think, especially rubbed outside of the skin.  And, when in doubt, add more butter and a sprinkle of dried herbs on top!  Also, paying the extra dollar per pound to get an organic, free range bird really is worth it.  It tastes fresher, mine have always come out more moist than their processed counterparts, and it feels a touch better for the soul.

Food nostalgia: Cheesy Hashbrowns

I really started to cook when I lived in California. The abundance of fresh, local produce available year-round and my meager AmeriCorps salary meant that it made the most sense to learn how to cook with unfamiliar, inexpensive ingredients and hope for the best. Plus, good food permeates the city, from the late-night street meat in the Mission to foodie meccas like Chez Panisse and Coi. It was hard not to get swept away by the foodie-ness. Because I came to cooking-age out West, my weekly meal planning leans towards more simple, produce-centric dishes. Sure, I keep my pantry stocked with some tomato puree, veggie bullion, and generic bread crumbs, but other than that I don't often used canned or pre-packaged ingredients. But, something about this time of year brings out my inner wannabe-1950's Midwest housewife who just wants to make casseroles and hotdishes and all sorts of hearty, cheesy goodies that use exotic ingredients like cream of mushroom soup. The idea of Semi-Homemade Cooking usually weirds me out, but the thought of a tater tot hotdish (a favorite in my household growing up) or a tuna casserole...boy oh boy does that brings me back to very cold Minnesota evenings, fighting with my brothers and making ice traps in our annual snow fort. Ahh, the good old days.

My absolute favorite hotdish is the cheesy hashbrown casserole that is a staple of our Christmas morning brunch. My aunt makes two massive pans of it to feed the ever-growing Irish Catholic crew. I tell ya, there are few things in the world I love more than cheese and potatoes. I had attempted this dish a few times in college, but much to my chagrin, it was never the same. I tried it with home-shredded potatoes and creamy bechamels and a variety of different cheeses, and nothing! So, I gave up and decided that my cheesy hashbrowns would just have to wait for Christmas morning. I stopped believing in Santa when I was 6 or so, but I still wake up with the giddiness of a child on Christmas morning, anxious for the annual spread of hashbrowns, oatmeal-molasses bread (which we cousins sneakily eat throughout the day like a high schooler with a flask), and 24 hours of A Christmas Carol.

All of this reminiscing about food and Christmas and family is probably unnecessary, but now maybe you can imagine my excitement to have those very same cheesy potatoes show up at Fakesgiving, a vegetarian Thanksgiving celebration hosted by a friend of mine. I asked the chef how he made those delectable taters, and he told me all you need are some frozen hashbrowns, canned soup, sour cream, and some cheese. Seriously? All I have to do is go buy some prepacked products, chop up an onion, and stir? That's all? No scrubbing or peeling, no dicing, no making a sauce? Sandra Lee, you might just be onto something.

Traditionally (at least during my childhood), cheesy hashbrowns are made with a bright orange sharp cheddar, but I only had white cheddar on hand for this batch. Sometime this winter (as I'm sure I'll be making this every week or so) I'm going to try this with some gruyere or a mix of cheeses, for a little extra pizazz. Also, to make me feel just slightly better about eating at least two daily servings of what is essentially carbs wrapped in cheese, I added in some frozen chopped broccoli. Lastly, you can make this with cream of chicken soup, but the cream of celery adds a nice touch of flavor that brings out the sour cream and cheese.

Cheesy Hashbrowns

1 large (1 1/2 to 2 pounds) bag frozen hashbrowns, thawed
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cups sour cream (I've used light and haven't had any problems)
1 can of cream of celery soup
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. pepper
2 cups shredded cheddar cheese, plus extra for the top
2 boxes frozen chopped broccoli

Bread crumbs (panko will work too, or, according to my research, crushed Ritz crackers or cornflakes)
Cooking oil spray

1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients except for the bread crumbs and extra cheese. Pour into a large greased baking pan.

2) Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top, and then a sprinkle it again lightly with bread crumbs. Spray the top with cooking oil until well coated - this will help it brown and not to burn.

3) Bake until top is browned and potatoes are soft, about 45 minutes.

4) Eat, and reminisce about your favorite childhood foods...

...Happy Winter!

It's Choux Time, Part 2: Baked Gnocchi (ala Gnocchi Parisienne)

Gnocchi is one of those things I feel like is easier to learn if you spent a lot of your time watching your grandma make it. It's a dish I'm scared to attempt, especially after hearing how hard it is to make the perfect gnocchi. I've been trying with easier versions, namely ricotta gnocchi that has not ended up as light and fluffy as I have hoped. When I saw a recipe for gnocchi parisienne, I was excited to find a new way to approach the dish, using the choux dough I've become so fond of.

The process of piping and cutting the dough into boiling water (described below) sounds weird and difficult, but is actually pretty gosh darn easy. I read one recipe that recommends transferring the cooked gnocchi to a baking dish to dry in a single layer. I'm going to try that next time - the gnocchi was so delicate even after it cooked that it mushed up a bit when I put it in a bowl before baking it. I actually ended up browning the gnocchi in a bit of olive oil before mixing it with the sauce.

I'm thinking the possibilities for sauces for gnocchi parisienne are endless. Pretty much anything you'd put into a baked pasta will work here. Also, when you're serving this up, keep in mind the gnocchi are deceptively filling - they taste all light and airy, but are packed in with a lot of butter and flour.

Note: I've been using the Cordon Bleu recipe for my dough, which calls for four eggs. However, I found that the dough came out a eggier than my liking. So, I've adjusted it to three eggs. Try it either way, and see which you prefer.

Baked Gnocchi (ala Gnocchi Parisienne)

1 cup water
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1 cup flour
1 tsp salt
3-4 eggs (see note above)
1 large shallot, diced
2 large garlic cloves, minced
8 oz. sliced mushrooms
1 tsp. dried tarragon
1 6 oz. bag of baby spinach
1/2 cup cottage cheese or ricotta
2 cups (1 8 oz. bag) Italian cheese mix (mine was three cheeses - Mozzarella, Provolone, and Parm)

1) Preheat oven to 400 degrees. To make the choux dough: in medium stock pot, bring butter and water to a boil. Once butter is melted, remove from heat and stir in flour until dough is smooth and shiny with a wooden spoon (whisks don't work in my experience). Add eggs slowly and mix until well incorporated and smooth. Return to low heat and stir a minute or two to dry off any excess moisture.

2) In a large saute pan, cook the shallot and garlic in olive oil until soft. Add the mushrooms, tarragon, and a generous pinch of salt, and cook on medium-low heat until mushrooms are soft, 10-15 minutes.

3) Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Transfer the choux dough to a 1-gallon ziplock bag and cut a small hole in the corner. Using one hand, squeeze the dough out of the bag. Using the other hand, cut the dough into 1-inch strips into the water with a kitchen night. Continue until all your dough is done. Gnocchi are ready when they float to the top of the pot. (If your pot can't hold all the gnocchi, remove some with a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl or dish, and drizzle with a touch of oil.)

4) Add the spinach to saute pan with the mushrooms and cook until wilted, about 5 minutes.

5) In a large bowl mix together the cottage cheese/ricotta and 1 cup of shredded cheese. Add the gnocchi and spinach-mushroom mix and fold gently (be careful not to crush the delicate gnocchi.) Transfer to a greased pan and top with remaining cheese.

6) Bake until cheese is brown and crispy, about 30 minutes. Serve immediately.

It's Choux Time, Part 1: Gougeres

I am not a baker. Sometimes I toy with cookies, when I get a mad hankering for some sugar, and I try to make soda bread around St. Patty's Day. But really, the precision that good baking requires is just too time consuming and finicky for me. So, I was excited to discover just how easy choux (pronounced like "shoe") dough is. It's the same puffy, crispy, buttery dough used for eclairs, among other delicacies. So, for a foodie dinner party, I decided to try some gougeres (pronounced "goo-jairs") - delightful French cheese puffs.

Gougeres are kind of sweet (in the awesome sense, not the "not salty" sense). They look and sound all fancy (ooh, French!) but are essentially homemade puffy Cheez-Its. It took me about 15 minutes to make the dough and pipe out out the gougeres, and another 20 to bake. For foodie dinner party, I made a sweet potato mousse (just whip up one large cooked sweet potato with about a pint of heavy cream until soft peaks start to form) and used the same piping method described below to stuff the cooled gougeres (just make a small hole in the side and pipe in the mousse).

A couple of things I've learned as I've tried to recreate this dish. First, do NOT leave your dough to sit. It takes out all the puff of the puffy pastry. No good. I ended up with flat little disks and had to make a sort of "gougere whoopie pie" instead. Still cheesy and satisfying, but not what I was going for. Second, these things are good cold, but better warm. If you end up with some leftovers, reheat them in the oven to maintain the crispy exterior, instead of the microwave.

Note: I've been using the Cordon Bleu recipe for my dough, which calls for four eggs. However, I found that the dough came out a eggier than my liking. So, I've adjusted it to three eggs. Try it either way, and see which you prefer.

Gougeres

1 cup water
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1 cup flour
1 tsp salt
3-4 eggs (see note above)
1/3 cup shredded cheese (cheddar, parm, gruyere, etc)

1) Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In medium stock pot, bring butter and water to a boil. Once butter is melted, remove from heat and stir in flour until dough is smooth and shiny with a wooden spoon (whisks don't work in my experience). Add eggs slowly and mix until well incorporated and smooth. Return to low heat and stir a minute or so to dry off any excess moisture.

2) Let the mixture cool a bit, maybe 5 minutes. Grease a baking sheet in the meantime. Stir the cheese into the dough. Then transfer it to a gallon-size ziploc bag.

3) Cut a small bottom corner off, creating a hole about a centimeter wide. Pipe the dough onto the baking sheet (similar to squeezing a large tub of toothpaste or frosting something) to make dough into 1-inch dollops. The dough shouldn't spread too much while baking, so you can pack the gougeres in pretty tight.

4) Sprinkle the dough-dollops with any extra cheese and bake until golden brown, 15-20 minutes. Serve immediately.

Rachel's Mushroom Pâté

Here's a fanTAStic idea for the upcoming  now-upon-us holiday cocktail party and open house season, whether you're planning your own or attending at least seven per weekend until New Year's Day.  Let's face it: a platter full of the three C's (cheeses, crudité, and charcuterie) are super easy for hosts to throw together and will satisfy most guests, but c'mon....it gets a little predictable. 

The humble, lovely mushroom gets elevated to prize-winning hors d'oeuvres status in this easy-to-make, everyone-is-happy appetizer:  It's rich and delicious but not heavy!  It's non-gluteny and vegetarian!  It goes well with wine, beer, cocktails, and, my personal favorite, Champagne!  Serve it with thin baguette slices, warmed pita triangles, or simple stone-ground wheat crackers, which you can find just about everywhere.  Avoid any flavored or too-sturdy crackers that will overwhelm the pâté's delicate brilliance.  This Mushroom Pâté is so incredibly delicious you'll be making fresh batches and playing with variations all through winter.  It stores well in tupperware in the fridge, so make big batches and then dole it out to people you really like.  *A final note: Presentation matters here, because whipped-up mushrooms do not make the most attractive thing on a buffet table: place a molded round of this on a colorful plate and surround with fresh herbs or grapes, or do it the easier way and just use a brightly colored bowl to hold the goods, surrounded by crackers and breads.  Everyone will be begging you for this recipe.

K, wishing you Bon appétit and happy holiday party season!

*I would recommend at least doubling, if not tripling this recipe.  It is that good.  Plus, it'll hold up well to stretch over several parties.  IF you really have leftovers, it makes a fabulous sandwich with some roasted peppers.

1 c. onions, minced
2 c. assorted mushrooms, roughly chopped
2 T. unsalted butter

some salt and fresh pepper
about 1/2 t. each thyme and paprika
plus a pinch each of tarragon and cayenne
1/3 c. sherry
2/3 c. blanched almonds (while blanched whole almonds are sometimes hard to find, you can almost always  purchase "slivered almonds" which are blanched and then slivered in the baking or nut section)
1 c. cream cheese, softened and at room temp

Sauté onions and mushrooms in the butter for about 10 minutes over medium-high heat, until they're nice and soft.  Add the next ingredients--salt through sherry--and sauté everything another 10 minutes or so.  At that point there shouldn't be too much liquid at the bottom.  If there is, keep cooking until it's mostly--but not totally--absorbed.

Meanwhile, pulverize the almonds  in your food processor until smooth.  Add in cream cheese.  Then add the mushroom mixture to the puréed nuts and cream cheese.  Whirl it around a few minutes until the mixture's nice and smooth.  Taste, and add salt and pepper if necessary.  Place in a sealed tupperware in the fridge.  See above for serving ideas.

Instant Love: Arugula Pesto

I might enjoy fall pesto variants even more than the traditional summer basil pesto. It'd be a hard choice. Maybe my love for a kale or arugula pesto is based in part on the fact that it reminds me of warmer days and sun and fresh tomatoes with pasta, all of which are sadly lacking as winter gets closer and closer. And, since I get home from work as the sun is setting, my internal clock says it's time for sleep and my cooking energies wane. Pestos add a snappy spruce to a quick weeknight meal, without much effort. Plus, added bonus, greens tend to be cheaper than basil, so you can get a lot more pesto for a lot less moolah.

Basically, all you need for a pesto is a nut, a green, some garlic, and some oil. A friend of mine even made one last week with green onions and almonds. As Roomie says, add a little garlic and some cheese, and you can make anything good, so pestos can be an easy way to add a little spinach or kale to your diet if you don't like the flavor too much. The process is simple: pulse some nuts, garlic cloves, and salt in a food processor until coarsely chopped, add your green of choice, and run your food processor while pouring in olive oil until your pesto is smooth. Stir in some parmesan if you'd like and you're ready to go. For heartier greens, like kale, you'll need to cook them first, but a fresh arugula or spinach can go straight into the mix.

For this batch, I used about a half a bag of baby arugula, a half cup of walnuts, 2-3 garlic cloves, and about a tablespoon of lemon juice (plus a lot of olive oil). Add the garlic cloves and lemon juice in intervals - you don't want them to overwhelm the flavor, and they can be easily added in later. Also, if fresh garlic flavor is too strong for your liking, hold the cloves in boiling water for about 30 seconds (e.g. water boiling for pasta) or pop them in the microwave for about 10 seconds - it'll cut the bite a bit. Slather the pesto on a tomato-mozzarella sandwich (like this one here), dollop on some hot pasta, or simply eat with some crusty bread.

Roasted Apple Risotto with Almonds and Arugula

 
This was one of those make-it-up on the spot recipes that worked out phenomenally well.  It started when roomie and I walked over to the Bloomfield farmer's market on a nice fall afternoon, and I wanted to buy some apples for lunches and snacking and such.  I bought a small basket of Cortlands, which the farm lady said would be great for eating as is.  Sadly, she was wrong.  The apples were totally wrong in taste and texture: slightly mushy/mealy, bland, and sad.  I didn't want to waste them, of course, and I considered ways I could cook them into something lovely.  Not too long before this apple shopping mishap, roomie had made a simple and delicious basic risotto with roasted sweet potatoes just gently stirred in.  It was delicious and comforting and oozed of homey fall goodness, so I thought I'd try to create a similar kind of sweet and savory autumnal risotto to redeem the bad apples.  So it's a pretty basic risotto, subbing in red onion and red wine for their usually yellow/white counterparts, with the addition of some roasted apple pieces and soymeat crumbles.  I don't usually brag too much, but this risotto on its own is really fantastic.   If you want to fancy it up even more and plate it restaurant-style to impress someone, instructions for that follow.  I listed the ingredients in a helpful prep order.

K, in creamy fall heaven!

 
Roasted Apple Risotto
1/2 tube Gimme Lean soy sausage, crumbled, and browned in a bit of canola oil (you can use the extra to make breakfast patties or just freeze it for future use)
3-4 unhappy apples, cored, diced, tossed in canola oil and roasted at 350 until soft and caramelized

2 T. unsalted butter
1 medium red onion, diced
1 1/2 c. arborio rice
scant 3/4 c. red wine (I used a pinot noir)
3-4 c. hot broth or stock
fresh thyme stripped from 3-4 sprigs 
1/2 c. grated Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper to taste

1. Brown the soy sausage and roast the apples while you prep and measure out the other ingredients and heat the broth or stock you're using.  Cover and set aside apples and soy sausage when done.
2. Melt butter over medium-high heat, add onions, and sauté until nice and soft.  Sprinkle with a bit of salt.
3.  Add rice to onions, and toss to coat in butter.  Cook just under 2 minutes.  Then add red wine, and stir until most, but not all, of the liquid is absorbed by the rice.  Add thyme.
4.  Add hot broth by the ladleful, stirring continuously and not adding more broth until the previous batch is mostly absorbed.  After adding 3 cups, taste the risotto for doneness.  The rice should be cooked but still firm--not mushy.  If it's too hard, keep adding broth until the proper tenderness is achieved.
5.  When the rice is fully cooked, stir in Parmesan, and add salt (at least 1/2 t.) and pepper to taste.  Stir in apples and soy sausage.  Cover the pot and let risotto rest for 2-3 minutes to warm the apples and soy sausage.  Stir the risotto and then spoon it into bowls and serve immediately.  Pass additional Parmesan for cheese freaks like me (and roomie).

If you want to fancy this up restaurant-style...
(1) prepare a balsamic syrup by reducing about 1/4 cup of a nice Balsamic with a few teaspoons of sugar over medium high, until the vinegar turns the consistency of a light syrup.  Add salt and sugar to taste if necessary.
(2) toast a few handfuls of slivered almonds until toasty brown.
(3) clean and dry a few bunches of arugula.

Plate a nice scoop of the risotto next to a handful of bright arugula.  Drizzle both with about a teaspoon of the Balsamic syrup; sprinkle with toasted almonds.  Win over the souls of your guests.

Sweet Potatoes and Chickpeas with Walnut-Kale Pesto

The inspiration behind this meal was actually a frozen Kashi meal, Mayan Bake.  It's delicious, if you haven't tried it - quinoa, black beans, plantains, sweet potatoes, and kale.  I loved the idea of sweet potatoes and kale.  I enjoy the hearty green, but I get sick of just cooking it up with some onions and mushrooms.  So, I did a google search for "kale pesto" and bought some walnuts and I was ready to go.  

The first time I made this, I tossed it with pasta instead of chickpeas and I used a lot more olive oil.  I wanted a chunkier pesto this time around - just add the olive oil until you like what you see.  Also, I tried using lacinato or Tuscan kale this time around, but I recommend the regular curly kale, since it cooks softer and makes a smoother pesto.  

The flavors in this are pretty subtle, so it might not be an instant crowd pleaser.  Kale just doesn't pack the same punch as a basil or parsley based sauce.  But for me, it's hearty and healthy and with an extra sprinkle of Parmesan, it's a satisfying fall treat. 

Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Chickpeas with Walnut-Kale Pesto

1 large sweet potato, peeled and chopped into half-inch cubs

1 15-oz. can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 bunch curly kale, torn into chunks
1/2 cup whole walnuts
4-5 cloves
1 tsp. lemon juice
Olive oil
1/2 cup shredded Parmesan, plus more for garnish

1) Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.  Toss sweet potato with olive oil and salt and roast until soft and brown.  About 20 minutes into the cooking, throw in the chickpeas.

2) In a large pot, bring a cup or two of water to a boil. Add the kale and a pinch of salt and cook until the kale is very soft, about 10 minutes.

3) In a food processes, pulse the walnuts until coarsely chopped. Add kale, garlic and lemon juice.  While food processor is on, add olive olive until well blended and the consistency you like.  Taste at least once for garlic, salt, and lemon juice.

4) Stir in Parmesan.

5) When sweet potatoes and chickpeas are finished, toss in a large bowl with kale and garnish with additional parmesan.

Instant Love: My Immersion Blender (and some soup)

Favorite Kitchen Tools

There are a few things in our kitchen that I use all the time. My bright red cast iron dutch oven, my santoku knife, my knife sharpener, a cutting board and a heat resistant spatula are usually all I need for a meal. The immersion blender, on the other hand, is one of those devices I don't use regularly, but whenever I do, I am in awe of how much easier it makes my life.  As I've mentioned previously, I am a clumsy woman and a damn clumsy cook.  Anything requiring the transport of hot heavy liquids into a standing blender usually ends in disaster.  Plus, I hate lugging out the blender or food processor and cleaning it and inevitably not cleaning it well enough so having to clean it again.  Such a pain.  That, my friends, is where my immersion blender comes in. Just one little device I can stick into the pot I'm already using, then rinse it off and stick in my dishwasher. Amazing!  Why don't I do this more??

Last week, I had a few foodie friends over for a New American themed dinner party where people were instructed to prepare a course and bring an appropriate beverage pairing.  In keeping with the season, I made a Celery Root Puree Soup (paired with prosecco, for those of you who were wondering). 

Celery Root Soup

1 large shallot, chopped
3-4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large celery root (2 1/2 to 3 lbs), peeled and chopped
2-3 medium yukon gold or red potatoes, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup white wine (or one 187mL mini-bottle)
2 granny smith apples, peeled and chopped
4 cups stock
1 tbs. dried tarragon
1/2 cup shredded gruyere

In a large stock pan, saute the shallots and garlic with some salt and olive oil.  Add celery root and potatoes and stir till covered with oil.  Add white wine and cook about 3 minutes (to cook off the alcohol).  Add stock, apples, and tarragon and cook until celery root and potatoes are well cooked, 30-40 minutes.  Puree using immersion blender until smooth (strain through sieve if you want it even smoother).  Add gruyere and stir until melted.  Serve hot with additional gruyere (or gruyere chips - just bake some shredded gruyere until light brown). 

Beet Risotto

A while back, two of my favorite foodie friends and I were discussing the best way to make a beet risotto.  Better to make a simple risotto base and top it with beets at the end?  Or better to make a beet stock and infuse the whole dish with beet-red goodness?  This prompted a beet-themed dinner party, replete with beet risotto, beet salad, beet chutney, and a chocolate beet cake.

I decided to go for the beet-stock risotto, because I wanted to see just how colorful it could get.  And my, did it turn fuchsia!  It was like Lisa Frank had decorated my plate (in a good way). And while the color infused the entire dish, the beet flavor wasn't too overwhelming.  The additions of dill, goat cheese, and some fried onions added a lot of flavor that balanced out the beetiness. I tried topping it with some makeshift beet "croutons," hoping to add a little more beet flavor and a little crunch, but they didn't get as crispy as I hoped.  Oh well. 

When I first tried making this risotto, I actually prepared the stock the night before by boiling the beets in some veggie stock until they were cooked.  This time, I just threw large beet slices in with the risotto for about the first 20 minutes it was cooking, and then removed them while the rice finished.  Both way has the same effect, and the second saved a bit of time.  I also tried throwing in some arugula this time, but I prefer the dill - it was a little more balanced than the spiciness of the arugula.

Beet Risotto with Goat Cheese

1/2 cup diced onions

3-4 large cloves garlic, minced

1 cup arborio rice

1/2 cup white wine

3-4 beets, peeled and quartered

3-4 cups stock

1/3 cup goat cheese crumbles, plus more for garnish

1 1/2 tbs. chopped dill, plus more for garnish

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

1) Saute onions and garlic in olive oil and a pinch of salt until soft and aromatic

2) Add rice, mix until rice is covered with oil, and toast for about a minute.  Add the wine and cook over medium heat until wine is fully absorbed.

3) Add in the beets and enough stock to cover the rice and beets (2 to 2 1/2 cups).  Over medium low-heat, cook the rice and beets, stirring regularly. See the basic risotto recipe I use for more information on how to cook risotto. 

4) After about twenty minutes, before the rice is done, take out the beet quarters.  Chop a few up to use for garnish, and reserve the rest for a salad or any of your other beet needs. 

5) Right as the risotto is finishing (the rice is al dente and the starch has made it all nice and creamy) add the goat cheese and dill.  Stir well, and keep reduce heat to low.

6)  In a separate sauce pan, heat up a few tablespoons of vegetable oil or other oil with a high smoking temp (not olive oil or butter) over high heat.  When the oil is very hot, add the sliced shallots and cook until browned, stirring regularly to avoid burning them.  Remove to a small plate with a paper towel and sprinkle with salt while still hot. 

7) In a large bowl or individual dishes, serve up the risotto.  Garnish with fried shallots and left over goat cheese and dill.  A nice Riesling or sweeter sparkling wine would add a final tasty touch. 

Who knew risotto could be so pretty?

Salmon with Fresh Tomato Sauce in a Hurry

Recently, in an attempt to boost my immune system and natural defenses as cold-and-flu-etc. season approaches, I've been trying to pay closer attention to the variety of foods in my diet.  I noticed I hadn't been eating a lot of healthy fats (aside from extra virgin olive oil on salads and a bit of almond butter at breakfast), so I decided it was time to prepare a simple salmon dish for a hefty dose of omega-3s.  I've also been reading a lot by one of my favorite health gurus, Dr. Weil, and trying to implement more of his anti-inflammatory food principles--an approach to healthful eating that's easy to follow and full of delicious good-for-you foods like salmon, for instance, plenty of fruits and veggies, soy, and chocolate and wine.

So, I'm going to make some salmon, but with what?

From reading my favorite of Weil's books, (which is a thorough and accessible healthy food reference), I discovered something interesting about lycopene, an important carotenoid (an antioxidant pigment) that is frequently associated with tomatoes.  Lycopene can only be absorbed by the body from tomatoes that are cooked, not raw, and some fat must also be present in the digestive tract to facilitate that absorption.  So to put it simply, a simple cooked fresh tomato sauce made with olive oil is a delicious way to obtain some important, protective phytochemicals.  Amazingly, beautiful fresh tomatoes were still plentiful at our local farmer's market when I made this about a week ago.  And so it came together quite nicely: simple salmon with a quick cooked fresh tomato sauce.  Definitely under 30 minutes.

In anti-inflammatory health,
K

2 cups cherry, grape, or plum tomatoes (whatever looks good at the market
1 medium yellow onion, sliced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
a few tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
coarse salt and fresh ground pepper
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice (optional)
a few teaspoons fresh herbs (optional, whatever you might have)
2-3 salmon fillets, patted dry with paper towels

If you first prepare the tomato sauce, then set it aside in your plates while you cook the salmon, you can use just one pan and make clean up time as efficient as the dish itself.
 
If using plum tomatoes, cut them up into small pieces; for grape or cherry tomatoes, halve everything.  Sauté onions in a few tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat about 5 minutes until almost translucent.  Stir in garlic and cook another 2 minutes.  Add in tomatoes, and sort of smush down some of the pieces to help release the juices.  Cook for another 4-5 minutes until the mixture is pleasantly softened.  Sprinkle with plenty of salt and pepper to taste.  Add herbs and lemon juice, if desired, and stir it in well.  Set tomato sauce aside on your serving platter, if you're using one, or just divide it onto the plates you intend to use for dinner.

Remove the salmon fillets from the fridge and pat well with paper towels.  Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.  Clean out the skillet and heat a few tablespoons olive oil over medium heat.  When oil is hot, add salmon and cook about 4 minutes per side, depending on thickness of fillets, until the fish is just barely cooked through.  Remove fillets from heat and plate onto tomato sauce.  Let sit 2-3 minutes and serve.  Healthy, yes, and delicious.

Sweet Potato Curry in a Hurry

If you're a fan of Indian food, you're well aware that regular take-out orders of channa masala and saag can really add up.  I think Indian cooking is often intimidating to people because of long ingredient lists and complicated methods, but I'm convinced that decent korma and chicken masala can be made at home--but that's for a later post.  What follows is a very basic but satisfying vegetable curry.    

So, I wanted to develop an easy curry recipe that could be thrown together on a weeknight in 30 minutes or less.  I really like curries that have a sweet vegetable component to counter some heat, such as sweet potato or Asian pumpkin, and I used that as my starting point.  I think this is a great base for any leftover veggies or proteins you have sitting in the fridge (I had sweet potato and red pepper, so those are featured here--be flexible and use what you have). 

K, now craving crispy papadum

Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil or canola oil over medium-high heat in a medium dutch oven, and when oil is hot add:

1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 t. red pepper flakes or diced hot chilies if you have them (or more if you want it spicier)
1/2 t. black mustard seeds
1/2 t. coarse salt

Stir for a couple of minutes until the onion begins to soften a bit, and add:

1 red bell pepper, cut into in a very thin julienne
2 T. of your favorite bottled curry powder
2 t. sugar

Stir for 2-3 minutes.  Then stir in:

1 can (14.5 oz.) diced tomatoes
1 1/2 c. plain yogurt
1 c. half-and-half, milk, or coffee cream

Stir well to combine, bring to a low simmer, and add:

2 c. diced sweet potatoes, baked or steamed
1-2 c. additional cooked veggies (such as leftovers; optional)
2 c. diced tofu or chicken (optional)
1/2 c. chopped cilantro (optional)

Allow everything to simmer for at least 5 minutes.  Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve over steamed white or brown rice.

Fall Cooking...

Fall harvest at the Bloomfield Farmers Market

Last week, I spent pretty much every night in the kitchen.  I braised a chicken and turned it into a casserole (or a hot dish, as we from Minnesota like to say), made a beet stock (and a subsequent bright purple beet risotto), a squash soup, homemade greek yogurt, and a beet relish. It was a good cooking week, but now my creative juices are a bit drained, and I've been living on quesadillas and the frozen homemade ravioli I made a few weeks ago.  Plus some pub grub here and there.  Every once and a while, it's nice to have the weeks off from major cooking.  Grilled cheeses, chicken wings or burgers, take out, and the prepared foods section at Whole Foods are satisfying treats on a lazy day.  Maybe I'll whip something up after the farmer's market on Thursday, but I'm okay with a little fatty indulgence of cheese and fried foods until then.


Fall, though is my favorite time of year to cook.  The produce is great (winter squash, celery root, brussel sprouts, oh my!) and it's the time to start fattening up for winter.  A lot of hearty soups and creamy pastas and baked dishes galore.  And fall brings the colors changing and perfect evenings for brisk walks and scarves and dark beers with friends.  Sigh, it'll only last a short while until winter's inevitable return, but we can enjoy it until then, right?

 

So I'm putting together a list of things I'm looking forward to cooking to keep me warm throughout the season:

-Savory bread pudding
-Vegetarian chili
-Perfecting my braised chicken casserole
-Salted honey lavender shortbread 
-Irish brown bread
-Truffled egg toast
-Crab tater tots 
-Getting at least one gnocchi recipe down, such as this one
-Celery root ravioli or soup
-Potato soup
-Coming up with an awesome risotto cake recipe
-Pasta with sweet potatoes and a walnut-kale pesto
-Thanksgiving dinner, in all it's gluttonous glory


So much to look forward to!

Squash are perty

Chipotle Spiced Kabocha Squash Soup

Squash season is here!  Roomie and I were talking a few nights ago about how winter squash can be intimidating sometimes .  And, kind of a pain in the butt.  Who hasn't tried to peel a butternut squash and chop it into pieces?  Or to thwack an acorn squash in half?  It ain't always easy!  Even with a good knife and some pent up aggression, getting those suckers cracked open is no piece of cake (or pie...pumpkin pie...).  But, squash soup, squash risotto, stuffed squash, roasted squash...So delicious.

I don't really know much about kabocha squash, other than I think it's the kind they use in pumpkin curries.  It's Japanese in origin, and according to the Whole Foods sign hanging on the bin, kabocha is sweeter and less stringy than an acorn squash (which the kabocha resembles). So, what the heck, why not try something new, eh? There were two varieties at the market - red and green - so I picked up one of each for kicks. I was teetering between Asian and Mexican flavors for the soup, and I thought this would be a good opportunity to use some of the dried peppers I picked up in Oaxaca earlier this year. Mexican it was!  I was also hoping to use the kabocha seeds themselves as a garnish, but roasting them ended up kind of failing - they're too big and chewy.  Pepitas, though, would be a nice touch for a little extra texture to the soup.

Out of sheer laziness, I decided to roast the squash.  I could have peeled 'em and chopped 'em up and let it all cook in the stock, thus saving some the time you'd have to wait for the squash to roast.  But I decided I'd rather wait a half-hour to roast the squash (during which I could cook a second dish or watch some tv) instead of getting frustrated with having to break down those little pumpkin suckers.  And probably chopping a finger off.  Once the squash was soft from the oven, all I had to do was scoop out the meat.  Easy stuff. The squash straight out of the oven, by the way, was deliciously sweet and smooth.  Kabocha was definitely the right choice.

Cooking this soup reminded me of how much I love my immersion blender.  I'm a clumsy cook (really, I'm just a clumsy person) - I spill and I slip and I drop pans and all that jazz.  Roomie, who was eating in the other room while I made this recipe, asked me at least three times if I needed any help (after dropping a few things and burning my hand.  Sweet.)  Anyway, when I used to have to puree soups in a standing blender, I would inevitably end up spilling the stock and putting in too much and making a crazy mess.  Even now, if I do use my standing blender, I just spoon out the solid stuff (potatoes or squash usually), puree them alone, and add them back to the stock.  But, with an immersion blender, I don't need to deal with any of that.  Plug in the blender, whirl it around the pot where my food is already cooking, and viola, puree! If you like pureed soups (or tomato sauces, or smoothies) without the hassle of a standing blender, it's definitely worth the investment.  Or do like I did, and ask for one for Christmas.

Thoughts after leftovers for lunch: This soup needs a bit of acidity, but I'm not quite sure how to achieve it.  A squeeze of lemon juice might suffice, but it also might overwhelm the squash and chipotle flavors.  Maybe some zest?  A chimichurri sauce?  Or at least a knock off of chimichurri, probably closer to a cilantro pistou. Good plan...

Chipotle-Spiced Squash Soup

2 Kabocha squash (I used one red and one green, about 5 pounds in total)
1/2 large onion, chopped
3-4 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 tbs. cumin
2 tsp. chile powder
4 cups stock (one box's worth)
3-4 dried chipotles (I'm sure canned chipotles will do, as well)


1 bunch cilantro
2 tbs. olive oil
2 tbs. lemon juice
3-4 large cloves garlic


Ricotta/plain yogurt/crema
Pepitas

1) Preheat oven to 375-degrees.  Quarter the squash and scoop out the seeds.  Place on a greased cookie sheet and roast until squash is soft enough to scoop out, about 30 minutes.

2) Remove squash from oven. Using a towel to protect your hands and a large spoon, scoop out the meat of the squash into a large prep bowl. It doesn't have to look pretty - it'll keep cooking and get pureed later.

3) In a large stock pan, saute the onion, garlic and a hefty pinch of salt in olive oil over medium heat until soft and slightly translucent (about five minutes).  Add the cumin and chili powder and stir to coat the onion and garlic.  Cook a couple of minutes, until you can smell the cumin and chili throughout your kitchen.

4) Add squash, stock, and chipotle peppers and stir until well mixed.  Reduce heat to low and let simmer for 20-30 minutes.  Taste about 10 minutes in to see if more salt or spice is needed. (Cumin and chili will add some earthy smokiness. Smell 'em to see which one you like more - I like cumin.  Throw in another chipotle pepper or some red pepper flakes if you want more heat.)

5) While the soup is simmering, in a food processor blend together the cilantro, olive oil, lemon juice, remaining garlic, and a pinch of salt.  Blend until its about the consistency of a pesto. Add more olive oil as necessary.

6) Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth.  

7) Ladle soup into a bowl and add a dollop of ricotta/yogurt/sour cream/etc (whatever you have on hand) and a spoonful of the cilantro pesto and garnish with some pepitas.  Serve hot!

Serves 6-8.

Eggplant Caponata (or "Gobbladina")

I know that October indicates that we're pretty firmly into autumn, but I associate this classic Italian eggplant relish, Caponata, with summertime parties at my Italian grandparents' house.  For some reason, my grandmother calls this dish "Gobbladina," as in, it's-so-incredibly-delicious-everyone-wants-to-gobble-it-up.  To this day, I'm not totally sure why she gave it that nickname.  When I was a kid this was one of my favorite foods made by Grandma; of course it was always homemade to her exact specifications, like everything else that came out of her kitchen--or house, for that matter (she was also a highly accomplished dressmaker).  Since I got to enjoy it only a few times a year, Gobbladina always felt like a really luxurious, rare treat--my parents never made it and believed that the pre-made "caponata" sold in jars in supermarkets just couldn't match up to the sweet, slightly spicy, wonderfully gooey delicacy that Grandma could create from a few humble vegetables: eggplant, onion, and tomato. The remarkable thing is that Gobbladina is incredibly easy to make, and it's sort of hard to screw up.  Even if you only roughly follow the instructions below, you'll end up with something delicious.

Traditionally, Caponata is served as part of an Italian antipasto platter before the "real meal" begins, but if you're like me, the antipasto has some of the best stuff: briny olives, chunks of salty sharp Provolone, strips of sweet roasted peppers, cured Italian meats, and of course, Caponata.  This is certainly a wonderful way to enjoy it, but I'm so in love with this food that I have devised many more ways to appreciate it regularly--see below the recipe for an inspirational list.

Now, on to the ingredients:  depending on which region in Italy one hails from, Caponata is prepared in several variations: some include chopped olives or capers, some are more oily with fewer spices, some are infused with a heavy dose of citrus zest.  The version I wrote up here is of course, in my opinion, the best way to do it--the Sicilian way.  I thank my lovely Grandmother, Agatha, for instilling in me such a divine devotion to eggplant: via Gobbladina in the summer, and her rendition of Eggplant Parmesan the rest of the year--but that's for another post entirely.

Mangia!
K, feeling fiercely loyal to her wonderfully talented 90 year-old grandmother

Eggplant Caponata (or "Gobbladina")

1/3 cup olive oil
1 very large yellow/Spanish onion, cut into a 1-inch dice
1/4-1/2 t. red pepper flakes (increase according to your heat level preference)
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
2 medium eggplants (about 2 1/2 pounds total), cut into 1-inch cubes
1 T. sugar
1 t. ground cinnamon
1/2 t. unsweetened cocoa powder
2 t. fresh thyme
3/4 cup tomato sauce (from a small can of plain tomato sauce or homemade if you have it)
1/4 cup orange juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 T. capers, rinsed and drained (optional)
3-4 T. toasted pine nuts, for garnish (optional)

1. Once your ingredients are prepped, heat the olive oil in your largest skillet or enameled cast iron dutch oven.  When the oil is hot add the onion and red pepper flakes and sauté about 5 minutes until the onions are softened and almost translucent.  Add the garlic and stir another 1-2 minutes.
2.  Add the eggplant, stirring it around so it's coated with a bit of the oil and onion.  Then add in the sugar, cinnamon, cocoa powder and mix well.  Stir regularly for about five minutes until the eggplant is well softened.
3.  Add in the thyme, orange juice and tomato sauce and stir well.  When the mixture comes to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 10-15 more minutes.  Season with salt and pepper.  Allow mixture to cool, then stir in extra virgin olive oil and capers if you're using them.  Top with pine nuts, if desired, or store in a Tupperware in the fridge for up to a couple of weeks (if it lasts that long).  The flavors develop really well overnight, so try to make it a day in advance.  It tastes best when served at room temperature.

Ideas for Enjoying Caponata at breakfast, lunch, dinner, and in-between...
plated next to grilled ciabatta bread and poached eggs for an elegant brunch
displayed on an antipasto platter with olives, cheese, roasted peppers, etc.
stuffed in a pita pocket with some garbonzo beans and feta cheese crumbles
laid on top of a crostini spread with goat cheese
stirred into a mild cannelini bean spread
stirred into cooked pasta, rice, or other grains (barley, quinoa, etc.)
spooned on top of grilled fish, chicken, tofu, or halloumi cheese
layered in a sandwich with turkey breast and mild cheese
mixed with simply steamed greens like baby spinach
tossed with some roasted, diced potatoes for an Italian "potato salad" 
rolled into a wrap with oil packed Italian tuna and fresh parsley

Instant Love: Apple Crisp

Despite spending most Thanksgivings growing up helping my grandma make the requisite apple and pumpkin pies, I have never been able to master a pie crust.  When they're on sale I buy the pre-made dough that's already conveniently rolled out. But whenever I try to make pie crust at home, it turns into a mess and an utter failure.  Which is a shame, because tis the season for apples and for pies, and I love pies.  To satisfy my cravings for sweet, warm desserts, I've discovered the crisp.  It's the same pie filling that grandma taught me well, but without the hassle of a crust. Grandma never used actual measurements, though, so sorry for the lack of precise cups and tablespoons and whatnot. 


Get a bunch of apples and peel them if you'd like (I usually don't to save some time).  Then slice them thinly (say a quarter inch thick) and toss them together with sugar and a little cinnamon, maybe some nutmeg.  Use enough sugar to cover the apply slices well.  Put the apples in a pie pan or baking dish.  I also add some frozen berries sometimes if my apples don't fill up the space to my liking (as I did in the picture above).  


For the crust, you'll need: 1/2 cup flour, 1/2 cup rolled oats, 6-8 tbs. soft butter, 1/3 cup sugar, a pinch of salt, and some cinnamon and nutmeg. Mix it all together and drop it on top of the sliced apples. 


Bake in 375-degree oven until the apples get bubbly and the crust gets nice and brown (around a half hour).  Serve with ice cream or whipped cream.